Coastal cruising (Calpe- Cartagena)

8 Sept 2021

Well, we’ve made it to the Spanish mainland! The touristy town of Calpe is our first stop. If someone had asked me 4 years ago what the first thing a sailor would think of when they touch land.. I may have mentioned wenches, rum, singing a cheery shanty or perhaps even tying some knots. What I wouldn’t have guessed, but now know, is that the activity which fills the sailors heart more than any other is the promise of a trip to Lidl (coming a close second would be emptying the bins and getting rid of the recycling). So anchored safely in the bay overlooked by the Gibraltaresque rock that dominates the town we did indeed head off to Lidl.

The town of Calpe is an elongated strip of high rise hotels that line the shore, behind these lies a disused salt flat lake, now home to a flock of flamingos. There’s lots of holidaymakers here, and unlike other places we’ve stopped off, there’s a good proportion of English accents in the mix.

Once fully provisioned, we spent a few days there.

We may have just been a little unlucky, but since leaving the pristine waters of Greece, we’ve twice had our propeller fouled by plastic sacks, and in Calpe itself we picked up discarded thick heavy rope on two occasions which had to be cleared from the anchor with a swim before it could be fully raised. Leaving there, we headed South down the coast, stopping off overnight just off of Alicante, in a towerblock rimmed bay - more hotel workers than holiday makers by the look of it.

From there, after a short hop, we found a suitable spot for a short stay at the low lying island of Tabarca. Expecting a deserted anchorage, we were a bit surprised that the small island was a magnet for small boats of all descriptions, a frequent influx of ferries, and most entertainingly, on our Starboard side; a hen party all dressed in white bikinis - having a great time singing and dancing to loud Spanish Karaoke sung on deck from when we arrived until long into the night. The Port side was balanced out with what was perhaps not quite a stag party, but with sufficient loud music, beer and guys that it could have been. Here we were also offered mojitos by an enterprising young man driving around with a cooler in his tender.

Next day, we made our way further South and into the ‘Mar Menor’ - an inland sea which promises a break from the coastal swell.

Entry to the enclosed ‘sea’ is through a low road bridge that opens every two hours to allow the water traffic passage through.

We made it in good time - 8 mins early to the bridge in fact, and having since discussed this with Chez, I’m very sure we didn’t look like an impatient Spanish bull with its head down pawing the ground in front of a matadors red cape.... but I really liked the analogy so I’m using it regardless!

Once through the bridge we enjoyed one of those sails - the ones where you would take someone new to sailing to say ‘THIS...this is what it’s all about’. Gliding through the water, engine off, firm breeze filling the sails, slight lean, sun shining.... bliss!

After an afternoon like that, we anchored off what appeared to be a quiet beach - a few people walking along the shoreline, but only one other boat around.. As the sun set, the competing music from 3 disco/nightclub/beachbars began banging away. We tolerated it, and slept well despite the discordant noise coming through the hatches. I spent the morning sketching - something I enjoy, but really have to be in the mood to do. Despite it being a Sunday, the music all started again the next afternoon, by which time I had enough. Chez was happy to move, and once we were underway, we had another graceful glide over to a small deserted island in the middle of the inland sea. Lucky to have it to ourselves... just us, and the slight smell of sulphur in the air.. that might explain why we’re the only ones here!

Once our noses had acclimatized, it really was a nice peaceful anchorage - just us and the seagulls.

The water quality in the inland sea is in marked contrast to elsewhere we’ve been - the usual crystal clear blue, now replaced with close to opaque milk chocolate brown.

On our second day there, we did have some unusual visitors: the Spanish equivalent of the red arrows (‘Flechas Rojas’(?)) spent the afternoon practicing their craft, with upside down, formation flying, loop the loops, smoke trails and all sorts of other aerial fun and games. Nice to have such a random and impromptu show put on for us!

We have a date at Cartagena, so despite the calm waters of the inland sea making for a great nights sleep - on we go.

Back out through the opening bridge, and returned to the clear blue sea, we once more headed South down the coast. Mid afternoon, we found an anchorage, next to a disused mine to plonk down for the night. It was a rattling the cupboards swell spot. Oh well it’s only one night - then a flat calm marina berth tomorrow.

Chez has been messaging someone about an ‘Iridium Go’ - which in summary version is a satellite device that can be used across oceans to get weather / emails etc. when wifi is not available. Well this conversation all came to fruition today: Chez paid a lady via PayPal, who then passed the device to some Swedish friends who were heading our way - they came within swimming distance of our boat, which I gladly splashed across with a six pack of beers to say ‘thanks for being a courier’ - a group of giggling Swedes then passed over the Iridium and with a ‘to de loo’ and a dive off their stern they headed on - they’re also planning to cross the Atlantic later this year, so hopefully our paths can cross again at some stage.

After an uncomfortable rolly night there last night, we were glad to make it in to the marina at Cartagena, from where I now write this comfortably tied to a dock for a few days.