Rum & Hummingbirds (Antigua)

 

3 Feb 2022 (Antigua 1)

Arrived at close to sunset into a packed English harbour with our engine surely running on fumes alone by that stage. Our too close anchoring began a conversation with some Swedish neighbours. This started on the wrong foot, but thankfully developed into a helpful discussion on all our options for fuel, anchoring and checking in. The upshot of that chat was us heading just around the corner to anchor in the bay at Falmouth. Initial impressions - delightful! As we dropped anchor a large turtle joined us, frigate birds circled and swooped.

All enjoyed a flat calm proper sleep. The next morning we radioed for a medical check, stood by as instructed, then headed back across to Nelson’s old stomping ground on foot.

English harbour has retained a lot of its original Georgian stone buildings around the water. These, interspersed with palm and mango trees gives the whole place a great old world navy feel.

Happily, the medical check and immigration were painless - well for me and Martin at least - We sat outside in a lovely shady spot watching iridescent hummingbirds flit around the local flora while Captain Chez dealt with the formalities inside.

Once done - to the bar!!

It’s a nice little wooden terraced shack on the waters edge, with the all important wifi. After letting home know we hadn’t sunk (as yet), we headed back through town to a nice local open fronted restaurant, Jackie’s for a spot of lunch. Jackie’s daughter Tammy taking care of us with some local beers (Carib and Antigua brewed Wadadli ) and some burgers. She was lovely, and I know it’s a cliche to say it, but the locals here all really are; smiling, helpful and welcoming and English speaking. This is something of a novelty for us after the last 4 years in Greece Italy and Spain. Evening saw us sipping happy hour Wadadli’s on the veranda of the least Irish looking Irish bar I’ve ever seen.

Next morning after topping up our diesel with a couple of Jerry cans we headed around the coast to Jolly Harbour. This journey being our first experience of sailing in close proximity to reefs. The waters so clear, the turquoise bottom clearly visible as we glide along above. Radioed the marina on the way in, they were busy helping someone else into their berth, so we did a few slow donuts at the marina entrance while we waited.

We were soon helped into a pen, stern to, by Hutson - a calm and efficient marinero. I asked his name as he tied our lines - he said ‘it’s on me shirt’ - and it was, but he was a little way away in his tender, so until we got closer I mistakenly called him Martín, which thankfully he didn’t mind too much.

Jolly harbour - touch of the golf resort about it, the numerous golf buggies dotted around adding to the look. At the end of our pontoon is a crumbling mansion with columns and architectural flourishes galore which we later found out was once a casino.

Spend a while squaring the boat away.

The local supermarket is guarded by a overly diligent security guard who makes sure everyone:

A) is wearing a mask

B) washes their hands

C) takes their temperature before entering the store.

It’s well stocked with local, American and British (Waitrose, IGA and Coop) goods - but the seemingly absurd prices have us a little taken aback: $30 for a loaf of bread ... that’s Eastern Caribbean dollars, but that’s still $10USD - makes the fresh baked 90c loaves from the little bakers at Agios Nikolaos seem a long time ago. This is something we’ll have to get used to and alter our diet accordingly - hopefully I can regularly catch fish - these we can have with the relatively cheap rice and noodles on offer.

The weather turned a bit grey and wet - corresponding perfectly with Chez hanging out the first of many loads of our accumulated washing. The land-squalls continued for the first day keeping us on the boat in the main.

Headed to the bar next to the marina for some exceptionally good sundowner rum punches (Cranberry based with lots of ice and a cherry soaked in Amerreto) that evening. The same bar entertaining us the next day with some excellent old school reggae which we enjoyed on the boat - as the singer said ‘enjoying some R and R man... Red wine and Reggae’

Sadly Martin’s departure is soon to be upon us, so it was good that the sun decided to put his hat back on for his last day. Headed back down to the - you’d have to say - magnificent beach for a stroll and swim with Martin.

We’d been down previously during a drizzly hour and had a beer at the beach bar - it looked so much better with the sun out.

After a hard, unforgettable, and hopefully at times enjoyable month, Martin then heads home - and the boat is a lesser place for his departure. He’s an all round good egg (man)