Hot & Smelly (Guadeloupe)

Having developed a strong addiction for fresh baguettes in Pigeon Bay, we decide it’s time once again to move on. We motor the two miles down the coast to the little town of Boulliante whose claim to fame are the hot bubbling springs which empty into the sea there. This gives the place a mildly sulphurous odour, it’s only a hint though, so we’ll hopefully accustom to it soon (we do). I always like to dive on the anchor at a new location to make sure the blades have dug in properly to ensure we won’t be dragged onto rocks in the middle of the night. Jumping in from the bow, the water has a top layer of lukewarm bath temperature water with colder water below - strange to swim in, but far from unpleasant. The anchor is well set.

Returning to the boat, I begin to take in the town. It’s a hotch-potch of shacks, tin roofed barns, and some industrial works around the source of the hot water, the overall look has an almost Wild West frontier town feel. The buildings are easily outnumbered by the trees, abundant jungly forest sweeps up into the rolling hills that surround the bay - all in all, not a bad spot. Once settled we drive the tender over to the source of the hot water. There’s a small beach and perhaps 30 people bobbing around in the sea next to a large red sign that advises ‘Access Interdit, Eau Chaude’ - we tentatively step into the water, and sure enough, it is a little bit ‘chaude’. As we get closer to the source - a gushing stream with large rocks either side - the temperature rises further, at times becoming uncomfortable when a current of undiluted hot water hits you. I’ve brought along snorkel and mask, and not expecting to see much I go for a little look round. Surprisingly, there is as much exotic sea life as we’d seen back at Pigeon Island, all happily milling around in the warm flow. We decide it’s time to leave when we realise we’re both getting a little pruney. After lunching on (getting our fix of) yet another fresh baguette, I take the tender ashore to a pebbly deserted beach for a wander. Not much other than pebbles, this includes an absence of discarded plastic which is in stark contrast to the beaches of the Med. I do come across a rather large and majestic iguana, about a meter long from the end of his striped tail to his spiked Mohican head. We keep wary eye contact on each other as I pass within a few meters of his sunning spot. He’s gone when I return the same way - probably realising he’s seen an Alpha Male/Apex Predator.... or he might have had enough sun by then.. either way, I’m glad because he was quite scary!

From there we headed further South, to the South West tip of the island. There we spend an extremely uncomfortable night being rolled around in the side on swell. We’re nearly out of water, so radio the local marina and arrange to pop in and get some. It was not to be - the marina is quite compact, and our large unwieldy boat struggles to manoeuvre in the strong wind into the space they try and direct us to. Managing to exit without hitting any hard surfaces, somewhat stressed, we agree water can wait for now. From there we make the short hop over to the group of islands just below Guadeloupe known as Les Iles des Saintes. They are reminiscent of a Bounty chocolate bar advert - absolutely beautiful. We find a good spot, and drop anchor. Chez, having not slept at all the previous night takes a siesta (not her usual habit) as I write this.