We're in Paradise! (Suwarrow, Cook Islands)

 

As the title suggests; we are indeed in Paradise...

However, on arrival, what should have been an easy drop and flop end to a longish passage, felt more like being in hell!

Both very tired, we unsuccessfully tried to anchor six times before we eventually set. Shallow coral heads, chain wrapped around rocks and an anchor that just could not get a grip in the thin layer of occasional sand. This didn’t make for a good first impression. Both of us swam to check below during this long process - lots of good sized fish and a number of sharks (black tipped reef sharks, and a plumper green one as big as me that I couldn’t identify). They minded their own business, and so did I. I was strangely unfazed by their presence: being more awed by their graceful sleek bodies than the slim possibly of an attack.

With a well received anchoring suggestion on the VHF from Graham (Salty Gingers) we eventually found our spot.

As Chez filled in the log, we cracked a couple of beers, these were rapidly downed and followed by some rum punches - this had us both doing what our anchor should have done: dropped and flopped.

Slept deeeeply for a couple of hours, waking to the Gingers (Julie and Graham) popping round to say ‘hi’ later in the afternoon. Seeing them is like a dolphin visit: always a treat. Graham had brought over some home made bread - just gorgeous.. not sure how he does it, but he’s definitely perfected the art.

Haven’t really taken in the scenery yet. We need to go ashore in the morning to formally check in with the ranger, we’ll start to get a feel for the place then.

Next morning we did indeed go ashore.. met Harry and his fiancé who are the current rangers - a nice welcoming pair. Turns out we’re the 70th boat to arrive at the atoll this year.

Formalities are soon taken care of, interspersed with chat about their upcoming wedding, the local shark population and Harry’s love of all things rugby.

I’m a couple of days in now… Well Suwarrow, where do I start?

The sapphire crystal clear water..

or

The graceful sharks circling under the boat

or

The pure and utter beauty of the place

or

The walk around this true island paradise

or

The happy mix of friendly cruisers

or

Harry… and his guitar skills.. There’s a lot to like. Tonight’s festivities high on the list among them…

There’s a call-out on the VHF for a ‘potluck’ - everyone bring their own drinks and a dish to share. What a lovely schmörgesbord we had:

Veggie chilli, all sorts of pasta, breadfruit, curry and rice, coconut crab (which Chez fully embraced and worked those shells hard!), melt in the mouth wahoo fillets, flat breads, and a ciabatta. All this, add in some great company, finishing the last of the Tahitian beers, and a couple of shots of tequila, it all made for a rather lovely evening. About 40 of us in total, Scots, Kiwis, Canadians, Germans, Aussies and Irish among others.

Caught up with one legged Ollie from Mai Tai, who we hadn’t seen since the Pearl Islands.

Harry the ranger unexpectedly creating the highlight of the evening; performing his local Haka greeting and singing a Cook Islander song as he strummed his guitar and his soon to be wife hula danced in front of him.

Back to the boat, drunk now - Chez has wisely taken a dive on the bed. I should probably follow suit.. but I’m fumbling about on the laptop filling up a memory stick with old British comedies and war films specifically requested by Harry the ranger.

Over the next few days, as well as enjoying the view, we ticked off a few boat jobs: Sewed up the mainsail where it needed repair, cleaned the hull, fixed the hydrovane, topped up the engine etc. Graham gave us a hand going up the mast today; a rigging check and anchor light bulb change. While I was up there, I was able to enjoy the stunning view: the colour of the water, the island itself, add to this the sleek graceful outline of a shark swimming along the surface, it was quite an experience. Sadly no phone up there to take photos. I could have stayed up there all day… well, I could if my testicles weren’t being painfully crushed by the harness!!

Had a nice snorkel on the reef just behind us this morning. An array of beautifully tropical fish hanging around the coral doing their thing - no sharks seen which is good and bad. Bad as they are truly graceful creatures to see up close, and good, because regardless of how good they may look they have been known, on occasion, to be a little bit bitey - Knowledge I struggle to keep out of my head!

We stayed around for a few more days. The Gingers departed, and the island was a lesser place in their absence… and not only because we missed their Starlink! They’re great people and we look forward to seeing them again - maybe in Fiji.

Cerulean (Steve and Helen) arrived, by which stage the ranger Harry had decided that the anchorage was full (possibly acting on an official rule..). They were lucky enough to get in as another Aussie boat kindly brought their departure forward to make space. Others were not so lucky, having to heave-to outside the safety of the reef for the night until more space was made by departing vessels. Very glad we didn’t suffer the same fate, suspect we’d have just carried on sailing if that had been the case for us.

A call call through on the VHF mid afternoon today had everyone up on deck. “Whales in the anchorage” and sure enough, a mother and calf stayed around the boats for a good hour, checking us out, while we all squealed with delight every time they surfaced and blew.

Although the island here is indeed a paradise, I think it may be soon time to leave… food and gas are getting low, and we drank the very last of the beer last night!

We’re thinking maybe Western Samoa or Fiji for our next stop …but let’s see how the wind behaves once we’re out there again. We have pre-arrival notifications lodged with Fiji, Samoa and Tonga.. so our options are definitely open!