Two solid hours of banging… and various other tales (Whitsundays - Magnetic Island)

I’m starting this one a few days after Charlie departed the boat. The usual post-guest departure gloom was thankfully lifted by the Gingers. With whom we left Airlie yesterday morning and headed back across the shortish hop to the islands, specifically Manta Ray Bay on Hook. There we took buoys and had two really good snorkels. First amongst a shoal of passengers from one of the day tripping jet boats. The second, from a tender buoy we’d tied to previously. The same group of large batfish and a massive, inquisitive Māori wrasse we saw during the first visit (with Charlie) made a second appearance for the Gingers. Graham and Julie, initially a bit wary of swimming with them,were soon in the water. The three of us swimming in amongst them while Chez - watching on from the tender - happily threw bread at, and around us, to keep our fishy friends interested. A great experience. The wrasse, as big as a long human torso, stayed close enough to touch, eying us curiously. It’s skin a wondrous pattern of almost tribal like swirls in tones of blue and greens. Google it: it’s amazing.

That night, we had two solid hours of BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG on the hull. This unwelcome drumming was the mooring buoy hitting us as tide/current/wind and ongoing curse conspired to keep us from a full nights sleep.

Ha! Didn’t stop me!

This morning had us heading over to Bait/Hook/Line/Sinker and Barb reefs, a morning’s sail away. We opted for Hook Reef, where we’ve just set in 10 meters of crystal clear water. I took a dive to check the anchor - something of a rarity these days, we were well set. Returning to the boat a large (1.5m) silver fish - maybe a barracuda or wahoo - eyed me going the opposite direction only a few meters away.

I’m now writing this as Chez makes muffins for lunch below.

The muffins were excellent; feta and sun dried tomato sprinkled with Mediterranean herbs. Side note: the diet has significantly improved since returning to Aus.. I am considering developing a paunch.

Post-muffins we headed out with the Gingers for another snorkel. This was fine.. just fine. The coral wasn’t in the best of states and there was no real abundance of fish, but a beautiful spectacle regardless; together with friends, in a flat calm ocean, the sun shining in a blue sky. Today is incidentally the first day of Winter.. well it definitely doesn’t feel like it!. We returned to the boat, leaving the Gingers floating around like two loved up otters holding hands in the water. Enjoyed the evening together on their boat - our tender dying along the way. (Edit: perished fuel line - now fixed) The next morning after a less than perfect nights (attempted) sleep, we had to leave the anchorage. It’s completely untenable to stay. Departed the unexpectedly rolly and sloppy spot around 7. The Gingers opting to head back towards land to fix their Starlink, while we sailed off NWish towards Magnetic island.

I’m writing this after sunset on the same day - and what a lovely day we’ve had! Lots of good sailing, and now motor sailing in light breeze as Chez dozes next to me (my turn later ) After midnight in moonless pitch black, the wind came up, sending phoserescent white horses cantering towards us. From then until dawn we sailed beautifully with initially helpful following swell. Got a bit hairy as I tried to nap around 3/4am; quite a lot of side to side rolling and an occasional saline splash spritzing our faces. Nearing Magnetic Island or Maggie the sea calms and we motor in towards a lush pine smelling large boulder strewn island - visually I love it already.

Dropped anchor and flopped on the bed trying to catch up on some of the lost sleep from overnight.

…a day passed - that overnighter really knocked us out.

Refreshed, the next day we headed ashore, taking in the few cafes, bars and shops that line the front, before heading out of ‘town’ towards the fort walk. Lovely trek - just about the right sort of distance for us. Highlights along the way: A sleeping koala’s back, an echidna rustling around in the undergrowth, and a jumping wallaby crossing our path. The forts of the ‘forts’ walk were an interesting snapshot into the past: guarding Townsville and surrounds from an attack from the sea in WW2. Somewhere we both agreed that ‘Martin would love’. The buildings and what remains of the site are dotted amongst large protective boulders, pine evergreens and gum trees. Great views, but both had aching legs by the time we returned to the tender - now beached a good way up the sand, the tide having gone out considerably. Soon had that manhandled back into the water and home to a boat smelling of freshly baked bread - things don’t get much better than that.

A day later I woke to the words ‘Charlie’s got appendicitis’ - this led to upping anchor, dashing to Townsville marina and booking a flight to Sydney.

Char in the meantime had surgery, the appendix had nearly burst, and is now recovering in POW. Of note: the Cowboys were on the flight and right at the pointy end sat JT (Johnathan Thurston) - who, incidentally I shat a bare 3m away from.

In other news, on returning home to Mascot, one of the garden’s 10m tall palm trees has fallen and is now precariously leaning against the lower limbs of another tree, ready to drop onto the roof and/or our lodger, Nivod’s shiny Subaru at any moment. How’s that for a cliffhanger finish…