Heading North (QLD coast)

Having had a jet setting break from the boat - including (for myself) time in Sydney with Charlie, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand with Martin, and a very merry month of May in the UK with family. We find ourselves once again, back in Bundaberg, readying the boat for a return to the water. Sanding, antifoul, too much fish and chips, a bent prop shaft, and getting the leaky seal replaced were the highlights.

Left there, possibly for the last time, and headed North at dawn on Friday 13th June. Both feel a little strange being back on board - the floor moving under our feet once again after such a long break. As we made our way through the channel markers in the Burnett river a pod of small dolphins came to welcome us back to the water - thanks guys

With our recently painted bottom cutting through the water nicely we made good time to Pancake creek.

Stayed a day, then headed up to Great Keppel island, where strong winds had us making a home there for 9 days - during which time we met a nice guy called Nathan, who had a spare petrol tank pipe - mine having perished. We traded for a loaf of fresh baked bread. Hope to see him again - seems like a good guy, two lovely playful big dogs, and a wife, who we didn’t meet, called Melana (we think). He owns a barramundi fishing lake in Darwin.. it never ceases to amaze me the wide range of people you meet out on the water - people who we would never have crossed paths with if we’d carried on with slightly more ‘normal’ land lives.

I’m writing this a little way up the coast, at Pearl Bay, we made our way here this morning. Started at 3am, no moon and big (2m +) seas. This made for an exhilarating ride, that Chez - trying new seasick tablets - was able to doze for a good portion of. Got to Pearl Bay - a wide beautiful sweeping beach, with rugged tree covered slopes behind, at around lunchtime. Nice to have it to ourselves initially. Both flopped.

We had a disturbed rolly.. and stormy night. Both up pre dawn and ready to set off once more. Conditions today, slightly improved from yesterday, and we have a nice strong current helping us up the coast. Quick dolphin visit along the way - Chez delightedly squealed at them from the bow. Made it to Hunter island (in the Duke group), mid afternoon. Were treated to a brief shower followed by a pretty bloody lovely perfect double rainbow.

Thinking back - I was visited by dolphins, saw a double rainbow, and managed to have a video chat with Charlie despite there being no signal here - that’s not a bad day!

*note: Hunter island was a flat calm peaceful anchorage - if you want a decent sleep, you could do a lot worse.

Left there this morning, with unexpectedly perfect conditions: flat sea, a gentle breeze, sufficient to fill our sails. As we made our way past the protective reef, a brace of swallows circled the boat tweeting out a good morning. The day continued well throughout the journey to Curlew Island, only marred slightly by some sea fog making our approach a little confusing. Had a windy day off at Curlew - the blow sufficient enough to keep us on board for 24hrs. No cellular signal here, so hoisted Chez’s phone high using a halyard, and tethered my phone to that - sufficient to do my Spanish lesson for the day, have a quick chat with Charlie, and to check the weather. Provisions are getting low so we plan to head off towards Mackay marina in the morning for a provisioning weekend.

Well that’s the plan for now.

…and despite having a disturbed night from the wind howling in the rigging, we did indeed set off at first light. Conditions are.. like a classic fairground waltzer: lots of up and down motion of the boat. Great wind and big seas. A single clencher as opposed to a ‘triple’ one we’ve previously experienced. With little discussion we are both wearing life jackets - that gives some idea of the situation. Managed to secure a berth at the marina over the phone.

We did get used to the wind and sea state, but turning against the surf to put the main away and to approach the marina entrance wasn’t the best.

Arrived there, in what I’d call decidedly hairy conditions.

What followed - we both agreed, was our worst berthing in 7 years of sailing. Those involved know what went on, and don’t particularly want to share it! Upshot we made it there. Dined on local fish and chips - Mackrel apparently: a good solid fish, like a bright white tuna. Both dead tired.

After a couple of days provisioning, and few minor boat jobs (new fuel lines on the outboard, replaced some 12v lights, topped up water etc.) we’re good to go again. While at Mackay, we became re-acquainted with Laurie on ‘Exotic Escort’ - a truly lovely old gentleman, with whom I’d chatted previously in Bundaberg. Hopefully we’ll catch up with him further up the coast at some stage.

Left in significantly better conditions than our arrival: little to no wind, and a light drizzle to keep the temperature down. Made it to a buoy at St. Bees island, from where I’m writing this. Life, I’m happy to report, is good

Had a wonderful solo stroll on the beach, drifted back to the boat in the tender. Both tired, we turned in fairly early…

Imagine: sleeping next to a kettle drum, that the drummer is repeatedly, and frequently, and loudly banging right next to your head.. well that was our night. The kettle drum (buoy), combined with the usual cupboard rattling did not make for any way near a restful nights sleep.

Awoken pre dawn, by a very ready to ‘get the F out of here’ Chez. Up and off. Heading for Brampton.

Easy sail across to Brampton. Arrived into picturesque flat calm… but I thought that yesterday too - so we’ll see!

We slept like babies - yay! The bay remaining flat calm.

Brampton was rather lovely. I hiked to its peak, Chez opting to remain on board and give the cockpit a good spruce up. Good hike: saw lots of lovely butterflies and one, very likely deadly, snake along the way. Very graceful and slender (thick as my thumb). The view from the top was postcard worthy: the turquoise shallows between Brampton and Keswick islands, the lush hills and the tempting Whitsundays in the distance - wonderful.

Upped anchor from there this morning, received a message from Charlie overnight that he’d won the Tennyson poker game outright:

Good on him!

Now heading to Goldsmith Island - just a short hop (2hrs) North. The buoy at Goldsmith island was the best place to sleep since we’ve been back on the boat - gorgeous flat calm. Only briefly disturbed by the coast guard mid afternoon asking us to get off it for 10mins while they dived on it and serviced it. Goldsmith island is another good stop - beach to ourselves, all rather lovely (apologies for the amount of times I’m using ‘rather lovely’ …but it is!). Dropped the buoy and headed over to Thomas island, only a couple of hours away, dropped in 7m. A few more boats here (6), but still lots of space for everyone. Enjoyed a few days on Thomas, a couple of good beaches to explore, a nice (shortish) bush walk to the other side of the island where we met the crew of ‘Black Diamond’ - a cat we’ve been playing cat and mono with up the coast. Cellular signal there wasn’t good: workarounds were once again hoisting Chez’s phone up the mast and tethering to it, or climbing little Tom island to get 4G - both of which gave me Mcgiyver vibes