Waiting in Sicily (Cefalu and Termini Imerese)

 

Another early start the next morning. We leave Tindari and we’re off to Cefalu - a journey on calm water in full sunshine with the beautiful hills of Sicily slowly passing to our left.

Cefalu wasn’t, but most certainly could have been, another location for White Lotus: pure blue water, rugged ruin topped rocks, backed by lush green hills. There’s a small enclosed bay with an upmarket fishing port vibe.

The place is stunning - absolutely gorgeous (if I hadn’t used the word over 1000 times in this blog already, I’d probably also say ‘picturesque’ - but I have, so there you go!)

Julie went off kayaking, while I swam.

Spent sunset playing with the water maker - a regular occurrence for boaties the world over.

Next morning, we’re off again, heading for our bolt hole home for the next few days Termini Imerese. An easy motor up the coast, making water to all but fill our tanks along the way. Dropped in the almost empty large bay - just one other German mono, who soon left.

Looks like a good spot to sit out some forecast stormy weather.

After cleaning out my sump box (as fun as it sounds) I treated myself to a nap. Woke to rain outside and a strange S shaped track on my navionics. It’s hopefully just a wind shift.

We had a couple of decent showers through the afternoon keeping us boatbound. Some would say a boring day..

We dined once again like Kings - with a delicious jointly conceived concoction that’s close to a chicken à la king with chips and peas. Washed that down with a glass of red wine.

My belly paunch - somewhat inevitably is growing at an alarming rate.

To alleviate this, Julie suggested we do an Abdominal workout.

With her rolling around on the floor, and me exercising from the comfort of the sofa we watched a YouTube video of a disgustingly fit young lady spending ten minutes torturing her mid section.

I’m sure it’d work, but sod that!

I retired at 11ish, this coinciding with an increase in wind that around 1am had us both up again and wide awake. We cautiously donned life jackets - it’s proper howling out there. The situation isn’t helped by a couple of halyards snare drumming away on the mast.

Being English by birth, I suggested tea, which was well recieved.

We debated more chain, but agreed that the conditions weren’t conducive to messing around up on deck.

There’s that uncomfortable feeling of gritting your teeth and anxiously hoping the anchor will hold - something we have both separately grown used to over the years.

We whiled away the time chatting about previous storms we’d endured - not dis-similar to the scene in Jaws where the guys are waiting for the shark to show it’s self and comparing scars:

“That’s not a psychological scar!… now THIS is a psychological scar!”

We continued to grimace our way through the howling above until 3am when a lull allowed sufficient respite to put the engine on and for me to head forward. Took the snubber off and added some more chain (another 50 ft). This provided us both with a bit more peace of mind.

Something I can be sure about in this little episode: Chez would have fucking hated it!

Headed to bed finally at 4:30.

The next morning our ‘saying of the day’ came true:

Storms Pass!

We woke to beautiful sunshine, a light breeze and Julie repeatedly singing

“I wanna know, will you ever see the rain”

Feeling a little happier than usual to be alive, I decided a swim would be a good start to my day - and it was!

Bit of washing, bit of water making.

….had a little break from writing the diary. A lull during which we reprovisioned one day, and kayaked ashore the next - finding a wonderfully characterful Sicilian town, full of balconied side streets, shuttered windows and an ensemble cast of suitably colourful characters. Walked to the summit of the small town, and discovered an imposing, ornately decorated church facade. We’re a bit in awe of the whole place, and feel honoured to be able to see and experience it. Returned to the boat in rising wind, and will likely remain here for some time. Our empty anchorage has annoyingly filled with late arrivals to the upcoming storm show.

I’m writing this at 1am on Friday 9th October - the wind having risen to ear annoying level since I went to bed. I had better get used to it: lots more to come. Not much sleep, but other than wind, no real drama to speak of.

More is forecast the next morning, and writing this at 1pm on the Friday, nothing yet. The sky has been an ominous grey for the last couple of hours. An occasional rumble of thunder reminds us (if any were needed) that something is definitely going on up there. Update at 5pm; it’s a non-event so far, no doubt waiting for darkness to fall so the lightening fireworks and the howling wind will have maximum effect!..and hoping at bedtime, that that prediction also turns out to be wrong.

Jimmy rang at 11pm, this coincided with someone outside repeatedly flashing a bright torch around.. soon realised that it wasn’t a torch. It was in fact repeated close flashes of fork lightening and the accompanying deep base rumble of thunder. Despite the stormy conditions the boat remained quite steady, and I suspect I slept through the worst of it: evidenced by Julie’s reel the next morning from up in the cockpit: near constant lightening strikes and pouring rain.

Boat bound and not much going on the next day.

Watched the film Tuner together on Saturday night..

Not bad, not bad at all I’d give it a 7.5/10

(Sunday) - we’re still twiddling our thumbs waiting for the next weather window to materialise for us.. looking likely for Tuesday at this stage, but we’ll see. (Later edit: Ha!)

I’ve been asking Julie if there’s anything that’s annoying / getting under her skin about me yet - not much apparently.

I did raise with her though that she’s slightly scary in the mornings.. this wasn’t well received (all this is of course in jest, and I think in the main we are enjoying each others company)

After the last couple of days on board, the sky is clear enough today for us to get motivated and we headed to shore. Combining another lovely hike up the cobbled streets to the summit, and a quick reprovision in the local supermarket.

On shore I’ve nearly perfected my slight head nod and ‘Bonjourno’ - I’ve dropped most of the ‘Bon’ bit, and have convinced myself I now sound like a local!

Said a quick ‘Hi’ to our German neighbours on the return, seems like a nice guy (in an Amel called Rhea). They are also heading Gib/Canaries and waiting for a similar window to us. He and Julie shared their frustrating weather woes. His assessment matching Julie’s: we’re stuck here for a bit - this info gave Julie a real boost, and validated her decisions - something my attitude of only being half assed interested in the weather has not been doing!

Lunched on chicken wings, which Julie advises are for Canadian Thanksgiving. Which having checked is actually tomorrow (the second Monday in October) - not sure of exact details, but suspect a sit down dinner topped off by a pumpkin pie liberally doused in maple syrup is very likely to be on the cards.. having now checked with Google - we’re also supposed to be watching a game between the Roughriders and Alouettes.. not sure what sport though. At a guess I recon it’ll be either Ice Hockey or Ticket to Ride - Canadians seem to love that shit!

The evenings film was ‘Eden’ - a film that we both agreed was a very strange affair, regardless - a true story apparently: I’m going 7/10.

Monday: Julie woke significantly less scary than on previous mornings. Kayaked to the marina. Closely followed by a large ferry. Dropped off the ‘compost’ bin and had a quick stroll before returning to the boat. Julie got busy with the stainless, while her lazy crew dossed below. Woke from my nap with a headache - very likely from a lack of water.

Topped up my liquid levels, and awaited the dreaded arrival of other humans! Specifically the young German couple who the Captain had invited over from the boat next door.

Despite my initial antisocial misgivings, it turned out to be a surprisingly pleasant evening. We sank a fair bit of wine, and all chatted quite nicely, until they departed just after 8:30. Watched the majority of Triangle of Sadness when they left.

Julie, eyes drooping had to take herself off to bed before it finished.

Next morning - Tuesday, I can confirm that a hangover, howling wind and a loudly blaring anchor alarm are not the best combination of things to wake up to.

Julie would agree.

We’d had a couple of nasty blows come through during the night that had us both on and off awake.

Started the day slow.. bacon egg and cheese sarnies on the sofa and watched the end of Triangle of Sadness. Despite its clunky episodic format, and utter weirdness, I liked it, and I’m giving an 8/10.

Slow boring day, but the suns out and the winds blowing, so a good day to dry the washing!

Film of the night; ‘Flight of the Condor’ CIA espionage thriller from 1975. Nice to see Robert Redford in his prime. The film had a few 1970s outdated moments, but was interesting to see history repeating itself with the Americans wanting to steal oil from Venezuela and the Middle East… ahh nothing changes!

Overnight we had enough rolling to mean lots of short sleeps rather one long one.

(Handed over the reins of the diary to Julie for the day):

Thursday.

(Richy edit: it’s Wednesday - that’s not a great start Julie! )

Is it morning already. Ugh. All nite tossing and turning as the friggin waves came rolling in from the east making Salty rock up and down like a hobby horse. I went to bed with a headache and was so hoping the next time I opened my eyes my headache would be gone. WRONG.

Nothing better for a headache than an hour long “try and make the weather say what you want” session. I run and rerun various PredictWind routes hoping for a creamy dreamy window but finally settle for a good enough one and have my summary ready to share with Richy over our morning cuppa and saying of the day session.

Next up freezing cold shower as the boat rocks back and forth and I brace myself. Shockingly it seems to help ease my headache.

Richy told me the other day I was “scary” in the morning. I forewarned him that I was a slow start and couldn’t be full on Julie Perry all day but now I feel obliged to come out of the bedroom a joy to be around. So friggin hard for me but I’m fully embracing fake it til you make it.

So here comes my exit and my high note voice. I open my door “Good morning Richy” I sing. lol. Funnily enough pretending to be happy actually makes you happy…who knew?!. So ya. We begin the day laughing. Lots of laughing.

Time for tea and coffee. I’ve perfected (I hope) Richie’s coffee making. He didn’t hold back on letting me know the exact sugar and milk ratios early on lol. He wanted to make sure he had mine right as well.

Finally time for Richy’s saying of the day. I always find it curious how he’s taken in my mood or a story I’ve shared or my worries and somehow come up with the best quote each day that helps me refocus. I wish I had something funny to say about it but seriously it’s my new therapy.

Fav saying so far is “be where your feet are” god knows I’m always thinking ahead planning goal setting and I often miss the good part. Today’s saying is “Not all storms come to disrupt your life, some come to clear your path”. I like the analogy of it but also don’t want any universe energy out there about storms in my future .

We decide today’s weather looks like a good day for a train trip to Palermo. As Richy gets himself ready I decide crepes are in order. I finally opened the Nutella yesterday and I’ve been dreaming of crepes since. Richy didn’t disappoint when he emerge from the bedroom and saw the crepe spread. Huge grin. Made me happy. He was very liberal with the maple syrup as well. A Canadian in training.

Once breakfast is behind us it’s time for all the daily chores. Dishes. Fixing of the sump box. Lowering the dinghy. Etc etc.

Finally we are underway in the dinghy flying along in the choppy sea. I still get that kid like joy when I take the dinghy into a plane and maneuver up and around the waves. I couldn’t help but let out a Yahoooo. We both had towels wrapped around us but not a drop got on us! Toot toot lol.

As we approached the cement wall I told Richy I was the funnier of the two of us. He laughed uncontrollably at this and said ‘no’ and I pointed to the evidence.

Now off to find the train. I’m usually the one who’s planned out the day and has the map out. I’m enjoying just following along. Excited to be off the rolly boat. Our new friends have agreed to keep an eye on her.

Didn’t take long for us to arrive in Palermo. Omg city shock. What a contrast to the slow sleepy town of Termini and our existence of 2 onboard. It doesn’t take us long to be stuck somehow in the middle of roundabout lol. ok take two. We back track and get back in the city game and before you know it we are in the cobblestoney jaw dropping Italian streets where I’m saying Wow a lot!

I find as we navigate through the street Richy seems to see things I never would have noticed. People and life going on beyond the magnificent castles and churches. I’ve started just looking to see where he is looking and copying the pictures he’s taking. He loves this…..or maybe not .

As lunch approaches we both can’t be bothered with a restaurant picking, a slow peruse of the menu ordering etc etc so we hope something easy might jump out at us. Richy stops dead in his tracks when he spots a chicken snitzel and chips panini. I point out that it’s not very Italian. He is very pleased with himself though returning to the table with it smothered in bbque sauce. I’ve decided to wait for my something.

After a perfect day exploring street after street and moving through so many different vibes in various neighborhoods we make our way back to the train station as my thoughts have been of salty g and hoping all is well in the anchorage.

Richy checks in again if I’m hungry before we get the train. Little does he know I’ve been thinking about the McDonalds I spotted earlier at the station. Yes people, please do go ahead and judge me. So terrible. In Italy and eating McDonald’s. I hate me and you should to.

The end of my perfect day.

On that happy note..

I’ll take back over now - thanks Julie. (and yes: we all hate you)

…and just FYI: I am funnier by a considerable margin.

That night, I managed to break my streak of fairly decent film choices with an absolute stinker: ‘When eight bells toll’- an Alistair McLean adaptation from 1971 with a young Anthony Hopkins running around Scotland in the James Bondesque lead. 4/10 steer well clear.

After the film, we spent an interesting hour or so playing a regular boat game from Serenity Now: Hunt that noise. This one was an intermittent deep baritone rumble that seemed to be coming up from the hull.. never quite fully confirmed, but best guess is the dinghy rubbing against the davits as we pitched - the noise did cease after I adjusted the dinghy height.

Our hunt did include the line ‘Lay on my bed and see if you can hear it any better’

Ha! I’m not falling for that old chestnut!

Another less than perfect nights sleep followed: constant roll, the sound of macerated shit pumping out next to my head, dreams about crashing my old Citroen BX after Chez had repeatedly told me to slow down (I know it’s a dream, but they wanted £7500 to fix it!). Then waking to what I thought was Julie crying were the low lights.

Despite all that, the saying for the day today is ‘Patience is not the ability to wait - it’s the ability to keep positive while you do.’ - so I’ll pause my ramblings there, and pop off and slap a big silly grin on my face and happily wait for the Captain to wake up!

Once she finally surfaced, we breakfasted then hopped in the tender for shore. The plan: to hike up as far as we feel comfortable up the mountain next door. It was not to be, after a few failed attempts at finding a decent trail to head to the summit (a bloody long way in hindsight), we agreed a more sedate lap of the town in countryside, taking in an aqueduct along the way would be a more age appropriate hike for our legs!

We were still presented with some fairly arduously steep inclines, that had us sweating in the midday sun.

Great to be off the boat two days in row.

The hike highlight for me along the way was meeting a wonderfully friendly, if perhaps somewhat rough looking, cattle dog. Spent a blissful 10 minutes telling him that not only was he a good boy, he was in fact a VERY good boy. He liked this immensely, Julie, not so much.

Finished the 11km lap with another walk through the character filled streets of Termini. Returned to the boat to find some tosspot has anchored to close.. it’s that shitty distance that seems OKish now (to the untrained observer), but will rapidly turn bad once the wind picks up.

Hoping he might be just a lunchtime stopover - fingers crossed for that!