SERENITY NOW

  26th Oct 2020 (Elounda) We had a very mediocre Sunday lunch yesterday at Rudy’s bar in Elounda. It’s a Ska themed bar that carries it off quite well, with the occasional two tone flourish here and there and unobtrusive cool ska tunes playing softly in the background. We’re there with Debbie and Lachie and Carl and Jen. Highlights of the meal being the spilling of Chez’s beer as Jenny and Lach joust over Lach’s flat out refusal to chink glasses properly: “We didn’t do it in the golf club!”. I’ve already said the food was mediocre, and it was, but having not sampled any Pommie fair for some time, even the underdone spuds and overdone peas were a welcome change. After a long late lunch we had an impromptu sundowners session on our boat, where fun was had by all - possibly too much by Lachie, who, it was agreed, would be getting several telling offs from Debbie once they were back on their own boat.  We arranged to head round to the lagoon that hides behind Elounda with Carl and Jen t

  19th Oct 2020 (Amorgos) Having been disturbed in the night by the dropping and raising of the local ferry’s anchor chain, when the actual time to get up and go came around, we were both ready to get going.  We’re tied back onto the town quay at Katapola on the island of Amorgos. Our neighbours here are Carl and Jenny, with whom we’ve made a firm friendship over the last 10 days or so. Both those two, and Debbie and Lachlan (who were anchored in the harbour here last night) are heading down towards Crete today. After picking up some pies for brekkie and lunch from the nice local bakery, we let go the lines and headed out, with Carl and Jen close behind. Debbie and Lachlan must have left pre-dawn and we’ve since heard they plan to overnight until they get to Crete.. that’s too long for us, so we’re planning to break up the journey into two legs, stopping overnight at the island of Anafi.  The initial sea state as we left the harbour was quite choppy, and having put both sails out t

  16 Oct 2020 (Amorgos) Not much went on today, but I wanted to clear up something that I’d written previously. Back in May - still locked down in the marina at Agios Nikolaos, I’d written a diary entry describing our neighbours on B pontoon.  At that stage I was on friendly nods, but far from  close terms with a couple from Chesterfield, Carl and Jenny. Having spent the best part of the last week back and forth sundowning on each other’s boats, we’ve really warmed to them. I am only sorry that I hadn’t spent the time, or been more social to have made firmer friends before. They’re so much more than my previous description: ‘ A fat ex-copper, and a wife with some big boobs....’ which, whilst possibly anatomically correct, showed more about the sort of person I am than actually describing them. They’re a generous, fun, chatty, warm couple who laugh easily, who we’ve found ourselves opening up to more than usual. I hope our new found friendship can continue and make the upcomi

  11th Oct 2020 (Amorgos) Woke to home made banana pancakes. They’re a recent addition to our diet, but have rapidly become a firm favourite - topped with honey: yum!  We’re anchored off the town key at Katapola on the island of Amorgos.  Amorgos is an island frequented by a large proportion of French tourists. The reason for this island being such a Gallic magnet was that a film (‘Le Grande Bleu’ or ‘The big blue’) was filmed here. I’ve seen the film, it’s about deep ‘free’ diving, I can’t recommend it, but the scenery is great.  Joining us in this anchorage are our Agios Nikolaos antipodean  neighbours; Debbie and Lachie.  With them, we are today hiring a small car for a very reasonable €20 to tour the island and take in the sights.  We pick up the car without issue, and head off to our first destination; a monastery and beach set against an imposing cliff face.  The beach is as lovely as any other, made slightly more so by the addition of some kittens hanging around where we’d

  6th Oct 2020 (Amorgos) Awoke in the beach skirted bay on the Eastern end of Koufanisia. It’s forecast to be a hot one today (30+ degrees in October!), so I set off early to avoid the worst of the days heat. I’m heading along the coastal walk back to the main town on the island to pick up some bread and hopefully get some stuff for my psoriasis. It’s been good all summer, but has annoyingly chosen the last few weeks to start playing up again. I take the tender to shore, tie it up on the beach then head long the well defined stone path into town. Along my way I pass close to the beach’s local tourist attraction. The dramatically named ‘devils eye’ - is a hole in the cliff that looks out to sea, not quite the satanic eyeball I’d expected, but worth the short detour.  Made it into town in good time, passing lots of small deserted beaches decorated with carefully stacked stone cairns along the way. Not many people in town - maybe 3 or 4, it’s the sleepy end of the season here now. I susp

  1st Oct 2020 (Schoinousa) Having left our boat guests and the crammed lanes of Santorini far behind, we headed for the little Cyclades. Had an unexpectedly good sail across to Ios - the current wind forecasts seeming to seldom match reality. Found a nice beach to linger on for a day or so - what few people were there, all seemed to have forgotten their clothes. We’ve paid another months Cruising tax, and are mindful that we need to head South to Crete at some point. With a view to launching that last leg from either Astipalaia or Amorgos we tootled our way across to Irakleia to an equally nice beach to the one we’d just left. Enjoyed a peaceful nights sleep there with waves gently lapping on the hull. Next morning we headed over the hill separating our bay from the main town - a short but demanding walk up and down the steep hill in still hot September sun. The small town was quaint, more village than town really. The beach, quay and streets all but deserted. Chez (who’d remembered