Deux baguettes pour Riccardo? (Nuka Hiva)

 

13 May 2023 (Nuka Hiva)

Our second attempt at checking in with the police at Nuka Hiva was as successful as the first: The lady at the other end of the intercom at the gendarmerie advising “returné Lundi” (come back Monday!)

All good - we tried!

The pre-booked baguettes from the small supermarket were wonderful, filling the loaf sized hole in my life just nicely.

I rather like this little spot - it’s verging on being touristy, but just barely. The locals smile and joke around together. There’s a few large dogs prowling around who delight in a bit of affection. The scenery: lush (there’s that word again!) high volcanic peaks surround us, coming down to palms at sea level. The anchorage (we’ve been told) is rolly, but we’ve had nothing but the gentlest of rock-a-bye baby rocks which haven’t bothered us in the least. Caught up with Becky again this morning - she’s found a new boat/home for her next leg to Tahiti via the Tuamotos - it’s actually our anchorage neighbours: “Into the Mystic” - hope that works out for her, she’s a bit bruised still from recent experiences.

On the Lundi… we checked in with a rather lovely looking local policewoman at the Gendarmerie - a photocopy and paperwork exercise rather than anything more digital, got passport stamps though. Did a bit more grocery shopping and slowly slipped into the rhythm of the days here… slow and steady.

Caught up with John and Debbie on Ballyhoo for some nice red wine and some homemade pizzas - which were better than the restaurant (John did point out that we’d already said the pizzas from there were ‘pretty ordinary’)

Beez Neez rocked up a few days later - Mike and Cait.. So lovely to see them both again, had them over for a few beers one night and spag bol the next - really warmed to them both. Such a shame the way things have panned out for them. I’m sure they’ll have a life of adventures regardless!

Salt, tequila, pomplemousse is the drink of the hour.

We headed off anticlockwise, bound for a bombproof bay at the North East of the island: Anaho Bay - it’s gorgeous in a Jurassic park meets Robinson Crusoe style. High peeks of volcano. Long sweeping beach and a palm lined shore. Ballyhoo are anchored up here (as are a few of the now familiar boats and faces) we head over for sundowners and enjoy another nice evening with John and Debbie - our last until probably Tahiti. Topped up the water in the morning - an easy task at high tide, the tap being right on shore.. not such an easy task as the tide rapidly recedes though. Beery afternoon with Steve and Helen from Cerulean - notable for me spotting nuns walking down the road.. checking with binoculars sure enough: nuns.

“I fucking picked it: nuns!”

…it was in fact horses.

Headed back round the island on my birthday in grey overcast skies. Did have a nice birthday dolphin visit.

Caught up with Jerome (from back in the day in Guadeloupe!) French guy on another J45 called Nemo and had sundowners with him and his old mate ‘Geey’ followed by a birthday session around at Beez Neez - Mike Cait Philip Kristel - on paper a great night, but there was a strange dynamic and it was a bit subdued. Still, enjoyable night in the main.

I’ve surprised myself a little bit recently with how easy it is to be sociable with people here - all having endured similar experiences and now enjoying this paradise for a while, conversations seem easier than usual.. I’m actually starting to like people …well, some of them!

Next stop (after topping up the diesel and baguettes).. Daniels Bay, a short 1hr 1/2 hip round the corner. High sloping steep sided volcanic peaks surround us, and once again at water level, same as Anaho Bay.. beautiful palm fringed shoreline.

Had a lazy Sunday there, then a little exploring the day after when the rain cleared. Saw my first true sighting (the others are maybes) of a nice black tipped reef shark today - just rowing around the coral at Daniels Bay and saw it gracefully gliding around about 3ft below. Very beautiful with its perfect stylish lines as it moves along.

Headed back around to the main town without incident. It’s nice that we’re almost locals now.. the dodgy looking guys who hang round the dock give us nods of greeting, and the ladies at the Supermarket greet me with:

“Deux baguettes pour Riccardo?”

Watched the sharks at the dock for a while this morning - the local fishermen are tossing the guts and heads of the tuna they’ve caught into the water behind them. A shoal of fish and two large (scary large) bull (?) sharks get the majority of the feed, also a 1.5m stingray circles around the bottom - amazing spectacle. I thought I’d got my head around swimming here locally, and possibly with sharks, but these two 2m plus well fed devils have reset that a bit: the way they devoured the tuna off cuts makes you realise just how easy a human leg would be for them.

Went on a nice couple of walks. With Chez we headed up to a lookout that overlooks the bay - hard on the legs for both of us, but worth the views. From up there it’s very easy to see we’re in a volcano crater. Next day I headed off on my own to take a look at a local tiki / sacrifice site. Got a little lost on the way, but found it eventually. Hoped for more, but had the place to myself and had a good look round at the few tikis that were visible. Beautiful spot regardless.

Had two run ins with ‘fame’ on my baguette run this morning; I saw Erin (Brian’s wife from Delos) hopping in her tender and on the way back to the boat saw Colin the engineer from Below Deck.

It’s Monday today - looks like we’ll be heading out towards Tahiti on Wednesday. There’s a good looking weather window, and a nice plump moon for the passage - fingers crossed for a good one. The actual destination still remains a little in question: Do we head for the delights of 24hr supermarkets and hot chips in Tahiti, or do we stop off at the Tuamotos with the ‘unmissable’ snorkelling ..and scary shallow, fast flowing passes. I think we’ll see how the passage progresses and make a decision closer to the time as we need to pass through them regardless.

Turns out Nuku Hiva is a little more sticky than we thought. The weather forecast altered sufficiently that we decided to await the next suitable window, so for now, a day out from Chez’s birthday we remain happily anchored in Taiohae (or whatever it’s called!).. lovely day - ending with mediocre pizza and too many of the restaurant’s lovely hoppy IPAs. (Either Noa(?) or Hinano(?) beers from Tahiti .